In search of the one millionth Mazda MX-5

There's a famous Japanese proverb, "isogaba mawale". It means "more haste, less speed" and is the kind of shrewd advice that would have helped me out of a pickle in Japan.

Searching for a car – just one car – in a sea of tens of millions vehicles is no easy task.

But hubris trumps logic, it would seem... And retrospection is a wonderful thing.

After blindly crisscrossing Japan in search of a vehicular needle in a haystack, I did indeed find what I was looking for... And it wasn't for lack of trying.

The one-millionth MX-5 convertible was the goal.

Why? Philosophy was never my strong suit but let's just say that sometimes it's the journey, not the destination that's important. And it's nice to get completely lost and subsequently entrenched in a place you know little about.

Anyway, there's a car, I've decided to search for it, but I have no idea about where to look or how to go about it.

The journey begins in Hiroshima where the MX-5 is made, and after a very cool tour of the Mazda factory it's time to begin the search.

One of the first things that strikes me about driving in Japan is the discipline of road users. There's none of the agro that's prevalent around Australia's big cities and everyone is incredibly courteous.

The MX-5 is probably not the best car to be driving across Japan for who knows how long – luggage space is limited at best, useless at worst – but it proves to be a comfortable companion. The seats are snug, yet they provide enough room for my six-foot frame and the cup holders work surprisingly well. They just take a little contortion to pluck your beverage.

There's also satellite navigation although my understanding of Kanji is sub-optimal... But I still use it to spot road houses and coffee stops located on the major freeways, and locating delectable ribbons of winding road.

In big cities like Tokyo and Kyoto the MX-5 is a doddle to get around in, despite the pairing of a six-speed manual gearbox and a small 96kW, 1.5-litre petrol engine. Pedalling it along is child's play, and if the clutch is tasty, then the short-throw gear shift is delicious.

It's not until the mountains loom near Nagano, where the 1998 Winter Olympics were held, that the MX-5's dynamic character comes to the fore. After endless highways and congested city traffic, I've finally found automotive nirvana in the tiny roadster.

On astonishingly smooth, well-maintained mountain passes the MX-5 is a dream. It's not particularly rapid but it's light and dextrous and hugely engaging. Keeping corner speeds high is easy, thanks to a uniquely-tuned chassis that rewards tenacity, the body roll and skinny tyres affording a degree of slip-and-slide that left me grinning like a Cheshire cat.

Eventually I pick up the scent but I don't want to ruin the ending. And as I said earlier, it's the journey not the destination that's important here.

Is Japan really expensive?
Yes and no. Some parts of Japan can be very expensive, whether you're after food, accommodation or just a cache of firearms. Tokyo is one of those places. But during this journey we ate some incredible meals, cooked in front of us, for around $7 – and they tasted great.

Are Japanese drivers any good?
Yes. In fact they're very good. After spending almost a week on the road, I can say that both city and country drivers in Japan have excellent lane discipline and an ability to be courteous and decisive. Best of all, they drive on the left of the road like in Australia!

What are these buttons on the toilet?
Just sit down, and push them. All of them. Every time.

Should I bow?
If you want to be polite. A little bow goes a long way. The people of Japan are incredibly polite and generally welcoming. Some basic Japanese sayings will break the ice and get you a smile every time.

Seasons and weather
Japan has seasons – proper seasons. It freezes in winter and it's hot and humid in summer. The plus side of this is spring and autumn are both stunning. Cherry blossom season is world famous but the autumn colours of Japan, especially along some of its best driving roads, are must-see.

Can I eat something other than sushi?
Yes. Finding sushi outside of tourism hot spots is actually a difficult task, and there are other traditional foods that are worth checking out, such as the Japanese BBQ. Sometimes called Yakiniku, roughly translated to "grilled meat", is very tasty, especially when you get to eat tongue and stomach lining.

Gyoza, or Japanese dumplings, are everywhere and they're delicious. Try them with chilli oil and cold Japanese beer. Don't worry about the brand, all the major breweries are good.

But If You DO Eat Sushi... You must understand sushi etiquette.

Firstly, don't mix the wasabi with the soy sauce if you have sashimi (no rice). That's a no-no to traditionalists. You should taste both separately. Use chop sticks, and dip the sushi in, fish first, or the rice will break apart leaving you with a tragic mess.

Don't mix the ginger with sushi or sashimi either. Think of the pickled ginger slices like sorbet, they're meant to cleanse the pallet between morsels. And that thing about burping loudly to show your appreciation of the meal? Pretty sure that's an urban myth.