Tips for winter driving

INSIDE THE CAR
It’s time to strip away that greasy film that sticks to all windows after it has been baked from all the rubbish and plastics left in the car over summer. It will attract mist and turn into a streaky mess if you leave it there. If your car has tinted windows, play it safe by using the correct cleaning product that’s guaranteed not to harm the window tint.

It’s tempting to spray domestic window cleaners on everything but they often contain chemicals that will bleach out the colour of the dash or the door trim so make sure it only lands on the glass.

Helpful Hint:
Instead of spraying window cleaner everywhere, use a synthetic damp chamois/PVA cloth to wipe the glass after soaking it in a bucket of warm solution containing a suitable glass cleaner or windscreen washer additive. Rinse the chamois regularly in the solution to remove any dust particles that could scratch the glass then squeeze it so it’s moist enough to clean but can’t drip on the trim.

Alternatively, some owners prefer to spray the window cleaner directly onto the chamois then rinse the chamois and glass with clean, warm water. After you have cleaned the glass, rinse the damp chamois in clean water and wipe away the dust on the gauges and surrounding trim.

Warning:
Remove any rings as a diamond scratch in the glass can make your car unroadworthy. Take extra care with the rear window as it’s too easy to cut through the rear demister’s fine wires with a trapped grit particle or ring.

• Clean out the footwells. Wet shoes can pick up papers and rubbish on the floor and can cause your foot to slip on the pedals or slip when getting in and out. Check that the pedal rubbers have plenty of grip. They are cheap insurance to make sure that your wet feet stay on the pedals when you need them.
  
• Check the operation of all controls. Does your heater and its booster fan work? What about the wipers and washers? Turn on the air-conditioning fortnightly to keep the seals supple so the gas can’t escape. Did you know that because air-conditioning removes moisture, it can be the most effective and fastest way of demisting the windscreen even if it is cold? When air-conditioning experts are not busy after the summer rush, you might get a better deal on an overhaul or conversion.
  
• Replace all blown globes in interior lights and instrument panel.
  
• Look for water marks in carpet and trim which can indicate a leaking heater core, blocked drain tubes or leaking screen seals.
  
• Keep a damp synthetic chamois in a container ready to wipe the glass in an emergency. Wiping away mist with hands can leave streaks that attract more mist.

• Clear away all leaves and debris that have collected around drain holes and ventilation ducts.
  
• Check all battery terminals for corrosion. Corrosion not only stops the current from powering up your car, it can also stop your engine from charging up the battery leading it to a slow and painful death. A solution of baking soda in hot water and an old toothbrush is the quickest way of removing white and green fungus from the battery terminals. Make sure none of this solution gets into the battery through the vent holes then rinse it away from the battery and car with fresh water.
  
• Check the battery fluid levels. A hot summer will cause the level to drop below the plates which is ultimately fatal for the battery so make sure there is enough water to cover each plate. Use only distilled or clean rain water or filtered water for topping up.

• Check all fluid levels and change them if they are dirty. If the clutch or brake fluid is down, there’s a good chance that you will soon be facing a clutch or brake failure so it get it checked out.
  
• Check the radiator coolant level but only when the engine is cold. Have you needed to top up the radiator over summer? If the coolant has been diluted by water, it will no longer contain its required anti-freeze and anti-corrosion properties. It should be changed every two years/40,000 km whichever comes first.
  
• Check all hoses for splits and bulging. Check all the drive belts for perishing and splits. Do the windscreen washers need topping-up? Are the jets blocked? Under NO circumstances use domestic detergent in your windscreen washers as it will strip the polish coat from your paint and destroy the rubber seals in the washer pump. Some brands also generate a scum that will block the pump and jets.
  
• Dust-clogged filters from summer will make the car harder to start and use more fuel during winter. Now is a good time to get fresh spark plugs, clean oil, new oil, fuel and air filters to make the car easier to start and conserve your battery. While you are at it, check the fluid levels for the power steering and auto transmission.

Helpful Hint:

• Now’s a good time to check if the spare fuses are where they should be. You are always more likely to blow a fuse in winter when the big electrical items are switched on together. Buy a small torch and leave it in the front door pocket ready for emergencies.
  
• If you suspect your battery is dying, get it checked now. If your battery dies and you require a battery fitted on the side of the road, you are in no position to haggle on battery quality or price.
  
• If an alternator light has been flickering on and off, get it checked immediately. If it is overcharging, it can destroy the battery and thousands of dollars worth of computers. If it is undercharging, cold weather will be enough to kill the battery.
  
• Couldn’t care less? At least, make sure your roadside assistance membership has not expired!!!

Helpful Hint:
Winter and summer fuel formulations vary considerably. If you haven’t used your car since summer, consider topping up the tank with winter fuel before you start using it again. Never, ever, let a fuel injection model drop below a quarter full in case there is water or dirt floating around the tank. A full tank in winter also prevents water condensation from forming on the inside of a cold petrol tank and rusting it out.

OUTSIDE THE CAR

• Check all your lights. Get someone to help check them for you or use a shop window. If there’s moisture inside a light, change the seal or the cover before it fills with water and rots or drowns the globe.
  
• Check that the wiper blades have a smooth supple surface and that they are not pulling away from their backing frames waiting to scratch the windscreen.
  
• Use a concentrated windscreen washer solution and synthetic chamois to remove all bugs and summer road grime from the windscreen to avoid streaks. Keep the solution away from the paint.
  
• Check that the drain holes in each door are not blocked and make sure that they are not holding water.
  
• Check that all door and luggage compartment seals are not split or leaking.
  
• Check that your tyres are wearing evenly. Get them rotated if there is a difference front to rear and get the suspension aligned if they are wearing unevenly. Most new cars will now require a four wheel alignment as the rear wheels on cars with independent rear suspension can also be knocked out of alignment. If the tread is level with the tread wear indicators, replace them immediately.
  
• Cleaning and polishing your car might seem pointless when everything is about to get wet and dirty but it provides an extra level of protection from the blast of grime and grit thrown up by the traffic. It can also provide a barrier against fallout if you can’t get outside to wash your car as often as you would like.

Helpful Hint:
I carry an old mattress protector or blanket in each of my cars ready to throw over the roof in a hail storm. It has also proved very handy to place on the wet ground when I have needed to change a tyre in the rain. Even if you can’t use them yourself, check that your jack and tools are where they should be and the spare tyre has extra air in it.

Warning:
If your car has electronic fuel injection, think twice about jump starting your car or someone else’s with jumper leads that have no surge protection. You could be exposing your car to automotive heart failure. If the other car has a dead short in the battery or electrical system, it can send a spike through your car that can generate failed computers and electronic parts that can easily top $10,000 to fix. Even if they don’t fail immediately, the damage will show up in successive globe and electronics failures over the next two years.

I have been there and done that – what started off as a Good Samaritan act generated a nightmare string of failures. Most car companies and reputable accessory shops offer the correct jumper leads with surge protection and the service clubs are not allowed to use anything else.

If you have a clever hint for winter motoring, tell us what works for you.

Article by Joe Kenwright and the Carsales Network

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