Toyota Corolla (1989-1994)

HISTORY:
The first all twin-cam Corolla range launched in June 1989 followed the Camry in styling and specifications in a confusing model range. Often referred to as the AE92 series, this prefix only applied to 1.6 models.

There were no less than five engines which can have a big impact on values: the 1.4 6A-F carburettor in the basic early SE sedan until June 1991 and hatch until November 1992, the 1.6 4A-F carburettor in early mid-range models and later SE sedans, the hot 1.6 4A-GE with wide-angle head and fuel injection in the sporty SX and GTi models, the 1.6 4A-FE with narrow-angle head and fuel injection in middle and upper level models after June 1991, and the new 1.8 7A-FE with narrow angle head and fuel injection added to the last Secas from November 1992.

Some model names changed to match these new engines. The SE remained the base level as it gained the 1.6 carburettor engine from the CS but the CS became the CSi at the mid-life facelift in June 1991. The early SX sports hatch became the GTi and the luxury CS-X became the Ultima, also in June 1991. The sporty Seca SX continued up to November 1992 when it became the AE93 Seca RV alongside a new AE93 Seca Ultima, both with 1.8 engines. A CSi Limited extra value pack was added in April 1993 in hatch or sedan.

There were three body styles: a basic five-door short-tail hatchback, a four-door sedan and the five-door long-tail Seca liftback which was a hatch with a longer rear section for extra luggage and rear crash safety. The Seca came from a different Corolla range in Japan hence its distinctive front and rear styling, which had more in common with the imported Corolla 4WD wagon than other Corolla models. This highly desirable and stylish Seca series was the last of its kind as Toyota applied the name to the basic Corolla hatchback in 1994 when the real Seca became the fully-imported Sprinter.

PRICES:
The huge decline in new small car sales during the recession and substitution of less desirable Korean models still distort the used small car market under $8000 and keep prices high for a model series now ready to be pensioned off. Depending on the genuine receipts with the car, demand for a good early Corolla sedan or hatch drives prices into the $4000-5000 range with the last Seca examples fetching as high as $8500. There are plenty below $4000 but many of these were worn out by their original fleet owners when the recession forced driving schools, rental companies and couriers to hang onto them longer than usual.

ALTERNATIVES:
The locally-built Ford Laser of the same years offered similar longevity and low running costs. The locally-built Nissan Pulsar from 1987-91 was also outstanding but its Holden Camira engine can now generate more expensive repairs. This same Corolla was also sold as the Holden Nova.

CHECK IT OUT
Dull solid colours will normally shine with a polish but dull metallic paint is often beyond repair and ready to expose the metal for major rust problems. Tough moulded plastic bumpers are often covered in spray-on bog to hide a cheap replacement. The bonded seals for the front and rear screens in all body styles can fail without visible sign and allow water to pour in behind the back seat or dash and fill under the carpets and rot the floor or the rear luggage area. If the windows mist up in bright sunlight, find out why. Rear tail light units are bonded to rear panel and must be carefully resealed if disturbed or replaced otherwise spare wheel well and boot floor will rust-out.

Check rear parcel shelf, gas support struts and scratches in the heated rear window circuit on all hatchback and Seca models.

Imitation body panels are rife and can weaken the car’s crash resistance if they are made from weak steel and promote rust. Check for rough edges on inner guard edges which can cut your hand and look for poor alignment of shut lines. Poor imitation lights can melt and fade; even catch fire. Look for water leaks and corrosion then allow for cost of genuine replacement.

Hardy trim and carpet can be worn through but new seat panels are easily stitched in providing padding is not ruined. Some dash parts lift with sun and high-mileage steering wheel rims pull away from internal frame. Spongy brake pedal usually means a master cylinder overhaul and worn clutch and throttle cables are common which makes them heavy and jerky. Odometers can stop for false reading so check other wear indicators. Air-conditioning may need costly updating if not working.

Split driveshaft boots and clicking CV joints while steering must not be ignored. High mileage cars often have a deep rumble coming from driveline which can be gearbox, diff or hub bearings, all of which can cost big money. Local strut inserts help you save on worn front shockers but worn rears require complete and expensive rear strut replacement which is why most used Corollas will have sagging or bouncy rear ends. Regular four wheel alignment is essential for even tyre wear. This Corolla is sensitive to tyre choice as some generate more noise than others. Front tyres will wear out three times as quickly unless constantly rotated front to rear. Rear brake drums often conceal weeping wheel cylinders, soaked brake linings and dirty wheel bearings for major cost. Check front brake discs for minimum thickness.

Corolla engines seem to generate fewer problems than the larger Camry. Alternators can fail on average every five years. When the seals in the mechanical fuel pump on carburettor engines fail, oil drips on coolant hoses then dissolves them which will cause them to fail and cook the engine. Replace the fuel pump and affected hoses immediately it starts leaking. Welch plugs, oil seals around distributor, engine sump, rocker cover and rear main then fail in rapid succession as under bonnet heat destroys everything perishable. Check for water pump leaks around the lower cam belt area as it can be fiddly to replace.

Cooling hoses, ignition coil, plug leads and distributor cap and fuel lines must be monitored as they are now old enough to fail. Difficult starting is often caused by the coil. Some are showing up with hardened valve-stem seals which generate high oil consumption but usually because they are not replaced after a blown head gasket

A blown head gasket, common if the coolant has been neglected, requires more labour than most with the twin camshafts. Cam belt replacement must be recorded otherwise allow for its immediate replacement.

Basic carburettor is trouble-free providing it is overhauled on a regular basis and filters are kept clean. Automatic choke can give trouble with age. Fuel injected models need to be carefully checked for leaky injectors, cold starting problems, black smoke under acceleration and rough running when hot.

Noisy or worn manual gearboxes are now showing up usually because of poor driving. Check the 1-2, 3-2, 4-3 changes for graunching. A clutch that doesn’t engage until the last bite of travel is on its last legs. A worn auto will display delayed changes and shift shock but is not the most expensive to fix. Broken engine mounts are now showing up with age and quickly generate costly exhaust fractures.

Make sure the hatchback or bootlid shuts and seals properly to avoid killer exhaust leaks. Check inside rear load area and side panels for tell tale creases from hefty rear impact.